Shooting the Surf

I was unable to paddle this weekend, my wife was busy with our eldest son and football training so I was left to entertain Zakk our middle child.

Living so close to the shores we often visit the coast for some farther son time but today a few friends were heading down to the waves for a bit of surf action.  So to kill two birds with one stone I took Zakk for a play and brought the camera along to photograph Chris, Eurion and Andrew on the waves.

The carry to the shore.

The waves always look smaller until you sit on the water.

Eurion was the first to break through.

Then the ride begins...

Lazy Sunday Afternoon

I met with Elan again for a late afternoon paddle.  It was about an hour after low water and the tide was on the flood.  The forecast was poor, a fair size surf and strong winds.  Elan came to pick me up and we headed to the nearest launch-able beach, Llantwit Major.  There was no point arranging a shuttle with the cars for any decent size trip due to the poor conditions.  So we decided to paddle against the wind and tide west and take it as it comes.

Today Elan was taking out Up&Under's P&H Cetus, available for demo. 

It was very messy, waves breaking left right and centre.  It was obvious from the off that we wouldn't be going far.  We made slow progress toward Nash Point.

Off Nash Point the waves normally break quite far out on a calm day so I had no intentions of rounding the point.  I doubt very much we would have made any progress against the tide anyway.  So we turned back surfing the waves back in toward Llantwit Major.

A group of wind surfers were enjoying the conditions near the landing point, flying past at some speed.

No distance covered but a good session in some rougher water is always good practice.

More Surf Fun

It's hardly been great weather lately for kayaking so I joined up with Taran and Gareth again at Aberavon for another thrashing.  

I think force 6 was forecast across the beach and about 5ft surf at 8 sec intervals.  At least the sun was out.

Not as messy as our last visit and we all managed to paddle out through the breakers for a clean run back in.

Still far from clean however.

I took a swim and another couple of rolls so took a time out to clear the salt water from my head.  My dry suite had filled with water probably from the neck seal and was slowly filling up from the feet.

Gareth took a swim and if you got good eyesight I don't think Taran is attached to his boat either in the left of the picture....

Nope I was right.

Time it wrong and your likely to get and absolute beating heading back out.

Taran makes a few more clean runs while me and Gareth decide to call it a day.

Back to the cafe for a coffee on Taran.

Smack My Bitch Up... accompanying video

Here is the video for the Bank Holiday Surf session...

Bank Holiday Surfing

A surf session at Aberavon beach was planned for toady due to a poor forecast over the next few days.  On arrival strong winds, rain and messy surf conditions drowned our hopes somewhat but we didn't come all this way just for a walk on the beach.  Apart from a lone lifeguard van patrolling the beach the place was deserted.  The coastguard peering out of their warm lookout somewhat amused by our intentions. 

I left my kayak on the van and we dragged Taran and Jules plastic Etain and Delphin down to the surf.  Each taking it in turn to take pictures and video.  Here's my pictures from my camera, a video to follow shortly.

Beyond the shallows the wave were intimidatingly large, 7.5ft forecast, and with only a short 6-7 sec gap it was a challenge to turn the kayak around to surf.

More often than not the surfing was done backwards, usually ending up the wrong way up.

I wouldn't really call it surfing but good bit of rough water practice and rolling in choppy conditions.  We finish the day off with a warm coffee in the warmth of the beach coffee shop.

Llantwit to Southerndown

Today looked like a promising paddle, slight winds, minimal surf and the sun was out.  We meet up at Llantwit Major about an hour and half before low water with the intention to make as much ground up before the tide turned.  I managed to convince Eurion to join us despite a case of man-flu along with Andy, Taran and Jules. 

Four boats lined up along the waters edge, Andy was delayed, there had been snow up the valleys.  Andy finally arrived but it was going to be a struggle to get around Nash Point with only half hour left to spare before the tide turned.

We make our way out through the small surf and push on toward Nash.

The St Donnats life boat was out and about seeming to be running through some sort of drill around the Nash Buoy.  Probably thought we were pushing our luck to get around there.

The swell grew as we made our way further west and I was beginning to think the 2ft surf forecast for Southerndown may be a little bigger.

The sound of crashing waves was with us for the journey.

We fight to get around Nash point, the tide so evidently against us.  A long slog in confused water breaks off and we head in to land for a well earned rest.

All refuelled we decided to push on and see if we can make Southourndown, the tide shouldn't be that strong from here on.

Out in the depths the water is glassy so we hug the shore for a bit of action in the surf.  As usual Taran had to push it that little bit closer.

Inevitably it had to happen some time.  A big breaker comes in I make it over the lip in time to turn my head around and see Taran and Andy tits up in the surf.  I love the picture above, Taran and Andy fighting with the waves while Eurion sits back and takes a few snaps, we had a good chuckle.

We push on the swell getting really big now.

Really big...Eurion and Jules paddle ahead while I think they can't seriously be thinking of landing in that.  Luckily they back paddled and withdrew from the huge breakers.

Then to my horror went back in.  My heart beats like mad as I watch a massive wave pass under me and roar out in-front of me knowing there's one lining up just behind.  It picks me up and throws me into a mass of white water.  The high brace works well and I even get the confidence to stick one hand in the air in the excitement of it all.

Images courtesy of Eurion.

But it wasn't long before we had to face the music and head back out.  Eurion goes off first then Jules, both take a pounding, being pushed back by the waves.

My heart is pounding once more but I couldn't have timed each wave more perfectly, catapulting through each one just on the brink of collapse.  All in the luck really.

We make fast progress all the way back, watching in awe as the ship sized waves break over the sand bank.

Downhill all the way home.

The surf back at Llantwit was nothing compared what we encountered at Southerndown and we make an easy landing back on the sands.

It turned out to be another fantastic day on the water all in great company.