The Bishops and the Clerks

It was the bi-annual West Wales Sea Kayak meet.  The forecast promised to be good for the long weekend of paddling, drinking and catching up with old friends.  I decided to join the Bishops and Clerks trip after turned down the invite for Grass Holm with Eurion and Mark.

I have visited these off shore chain of islands when paddling out to The Smalls and on return from the Ireland Crossing.  I have since wanted to return to take in the trip in its entirety rather than a brief passing.

Photo by Sean Hurrell

Quite a few had wanted to join in the same trip so we split in to two large groups.  The usual suspects included (from left to right above) Sean, Gareth, Me, Jim and Chris, Mike Mayberry was also leading our group.

Chris and Jim trying to look as if they know what they are doing.
So the plan was to take the south-flowing stream from Abereiddy down and out to North Bishop.  From there is was a case of simply allowing the tide to take us down past Carreg Rhoson, Daufraich (Bishops) and lastly South Bishop.  At which point the south flowing stream should be slowing to allow us to ferry glide across to Ramsey Island, sneaking through the Midland Gap and up through Ramsey Sound and into Whitesands Bay. Simples.

It was a perfect day as forecast but the speed of the flow was quite clear as we left the safety of the shore.

Sean and our first offshore destination, North Bishop.

Spirits were high as we headed out but there was a slight feeling of unease, for me at least.  The offshore overfalls around the chain of islands can become rough even in light wind conditions, partly the reason why some of us were looking forward to this trip and partly why some of us weren't so keen.  

North Bishop loomed closer and with it the tide becoming more noticeable.  However there was no obvious signs of any rough water to play in.

Jim enjoying some moving water.

A slight ferry glide was required to keep us on course for the Clerks but all was going to plan as we moved on between the islands.

The Clerks are actually a chain of over 20 islets and rocks, many submerged, encircling the coast catching many unwary sailor over the ages.

We continued on meandering between the rocky fangs, resting in eddies and playing in the overfalls.

Until only the last rock remained, South Bishop.  South Bishop, also known as Emskir (derived from Old Norse sker meaning a skerry), is the only rock with a lighthouse.  The lighthouse dates back to the 1830's marking the northern entrance to St Brides Bay.  Attached to the light is a pair of two storey keeper's houses, originally intended for two families.  However due to the exposed nature of the island it is doubtful anyone other than the lighthouse keepers ever remained.  In high seas the courtyard and addition of a heli-pad often flood and the windows have been known to break on occasions also.

Time was pressing and the flow had already started to flood north so we started what was to become an arduous ferry glide toward Ramsey Island.

The group split and the paddling dragged on.  It was clear we were not making much ground aiming for Ynys Bery, the southerly tip of Ramsey Island.  Eventually we gave into the forces of nature and aimed to paddle up the west coast of Ramsey before crossing over to Whitesands.

We stopped to rest and re-group upon reaching Ramsey Island before moving on.  Possibly the largest group of paddlers I have ever paddled with.

It was a fairly uneventful crossing back over to Whitsands bay where we joined with the group of the Ramsey Island trip.

A fantastic trip and another one ticked off the bucket list.  It was time to retire back to the club at Fishguard to catch Wales vs England in the rugby with a Chinese takeaway and a few pints to merry the night away.

Irish Sea Crossing

This trip has been a year in the making and it has been a long winter.  Last year poor weather, work and family commitments had put this voyage on hold.  A month prior Mike and Eurion came close to an attempt but last minute un-organisation flawed that plan.  A week prior we spotted a good forecast for a possible attempt.  I had no expectations, the forecast would never hold.  As the week went on Monday 3rd June just got better and better.  A large area of high pressure was building over the UK.  Friday we made the call...it was finally on.

This was the forecast on the Saturday. The Met office had predicted force 3-4, smooth to slight seas and average visibility.  To make the best use of the tides a crossing from Rosslare to St Davids would be preferable.

I met Eurion at his at 07:50 to travel to Mikes in Fishguard before midday.  Boats were off, packed and loaded on to the trolleys.  We wheeled the kayaks a mile or so to Goodwick ferry terminal, with a few odd looks from passing vehicles.

After a full English we set off to the ticket office where a very nice man gave us discounted one way tickets to Ireland. 

Photo by Eurion

We boarded with the cars, with further odd looks.  

Photo by Eurion

We sat above deck to take in the sun waiting to depart from Fishguard harbour....

and say goodbye to Wales.

This is where the realization of the scale of our trip hit home.  What kind of idiots jump on a ferry to get as far away from Wales as possible only to paddle back.

Photo by Eurion

The journey seemed to drag on.  We found a comfy corner to sprawl across in the lounge where they played Life of Pi, a film about a shipwreck in the Pacific Ocean.  The crossing took about 3 hours, about a fifth of the time it would take to paddle. 

We were ushered off the ferry, Eurions trolley comically fell to pieces on the ramps then it was Mikes turn as he rammed it into a kerb.  As far as trolleys go I think I will be investing in the one that I borrowed.  

The beach was a short walk from the ferry terminal.  We left our boats at the top of the beach and headed up to Rosslare to find some food and hopefully a pint of Guinness, well it would be rude not to.  

Photo by Eurion

 Result, chicken curry and chips....

Photo by Eurion

and a pint of Guinness.  There was a band in the bar playing typical Irish songs and it was quite tempting to get a few more pint in, but we had just the one. 

The midges were a nightmare up on the grass so we moved our bivi bags down onto the dunes.

9pm and the old guys were off to bed early.  I can't get to sleep that early, I'm a bit of a night owl, plus the sun was still up and there were people on the beach.  I managed to get my head down for a few hours before I woke to Mike yelling at me.

Mike appreciating the flash of my camera...morning.  3am and it was time to get up, get dressed and pack the boats.  I couldn't help thinking as I sat down in my boat and pushed off the sand that I wouldn't be getting back up again for another 15 hours.

Photo by Mike

We slipped off into the dark still not quite fully awake yet.  There was no sign of Wales for now, just the flash of Tusker Rock lighthouse and an array of shipping buoys blinking on the horizon. 

Behind there was not much to see of the Irish coastline but a thin strip of land and the lights of Rosslare harbour.

The sky brightened and the endless sea in front of us merged with the clouds.

The sun made a short appearance but was quickly swallowed up again into the overcast sky.

Photo by Mike

We passed Tusker Rock as the Stena Line ferry made it's returning journey from Fishguard.

I hadn't expected to take so many photo's, after all there isn't much to see on the open water.  But we couldn't believe the glassy conditions.

Shearwaters glided effortlessly around us, gracefully skimming their wing tips across the waters surface.

Just under five hours in the first sight of Wales came into to view.

Porpoise made a regular appearance as well as a pod of dolphin who passed just behind us, clearly on to much of a mission to pay us any attention.  The occasional seal made an appearance along with the usual sea birds including Puffin, Gannets and Razorbills.

Exactly half way we passed out of the cloud that had hung over head since we left Ireland into the sunny Welsh half if the voyage.

We still couldn't believe the water.  Sky and water merged together.  Scattered white clouds reflected on the waters glassy surface as gentle waves rolled underneath almost hypnotising.  It was as if we were flying.

Little circles appeared on the waters surface like rain drops.  Some darted away from the boats path.  I can only assume they were very small marine creatures.  Apart from a little back ache we were all feeling really good.

As each hour passed a little more of the Pembrokeshire coastline presented itself, however still looked far beyond reach.  Grassholm and The Smalls lighthouse could just be made out a long way south.  I started to falter around the ten hour mark.  I was lagging behind and attempted to stretch out the next hourly break.  A message tone from my deck bag suggested I had finally got a phone signal so I took a call from my wife.  I had been waiting for news on the sex of our expected third child, another boy.

Photo by Mike
Mike offered me a Red Bull.  I have never drank one before without the added Vodka but was willing to give anything a go.  Setting off again I wanted to get ahead, paddling behind doesn't help motivation.  I got my head down and before long I had left the others far behind.  A yell from behind to slow down, I really did get 'wings'.    

Photo by Mike

The Bishops were now looking close.  Eurion continued to call out the distance remaining...20 miles, 15 miles, 10 miles.  We were within reach but I couldn't help thinking these distances would usually be a good day on the water.

As we neared North Bishop it was clear the strong currents were carrying us north.  We had wanted to pass south of North Bishop so we steepened our bearing to compensate but North Bishop was out of reach.

We couldn't allow the same to happen with St Davids Head so a sharp ferry glide into a strengthening head wind was adopted.  The final two miles dragged out, so close yet so far.

Photo by Eurion
Small foot high waves rolled in onto Whitesands Bay carrying me and my boat the final few meters to touch gently down on to the sand.

Eurion was striding across the beach to where I landed like he had been riding a horse all day and as expected the legs didn't work.  Shoulders and back aching a little but the legs...gone.

We were early, quite a lot early.  15 hours was our target and we managed a time of 13 hours 39 minutes.  Steve Bunston had agreed to pick us up and by the time we wheeled the boats up to the beach car park he was there with a four pack of beer to celebrate.

Photo by Steve.  Left to Right Mike Mayberry, Stuart Yendle (me) and Eurion Brown.

Steve loaded the boats up on to the van...

Photo by Steve

while we laid about dwelling on the days achievement.

Our track from the GPS 

We stopped off in St Davids for a well earned fish & chips.  We decided to get home that evening to the comfort of our own beds.

Photo by Steve

Morning after the trip and we all felt surprisingly good.  The only feeling that I did anything the previous day was a slight ache in the shoulders and the feeling of a hangover, the combination of dehydration and tiredness.  The sense of achievement is a big factor that is still sinking, after all it is one of the reasons for doing such an epic trip.  Would I do it again? Oh yes.  If only to beat our time.  

The Performance Sea Kayak records board - http://www.performanceseakayak.co.uk/

Thanks to Mike and Eurion for the company and support throughout the trip, couldn't have asked for better company.  Thanks to Steve for the lift and much need beers after the trip.  Thanks to the Rosslare and Milford Haven coastguard and Stena Line Ferries.  A big thanks to everyone who has supported us and donated to our charity.  If you would still like to donate please click the 'sponsor me' link bellow.  Thank you.

And in case you missed the video diary made by Mike here it is...