Scalpay

The long wait to return to the Isle of Skye had final come but the remains of Hurricane Katia looked set to spoil our plans.  Sever strong gale warnings flashed over most of the north west of the country with unsettled weather set for the remainder of the week ahead.  We put off traveling up on Saturday and kept a close eye on the forecast.  We made the decision to go for it and travel up first light Sunday.

We spent the Sunday night in the back of my van in the shadows of Ben Nevis in Glen Nevis.  It seemed they were preparing for the worst as sever gale force winds threatened throughout Monday afternoon.   There was speak of 50ft high seas on the radio, all ferries grounded and bridges closed.  We woke early hoping to reach Skye Bridge before they closed it.

MONDAY 12th SEPTEMBER 2011 

Tents pitched at base camp at Potree on the Isle of Skye we donned the waterproofs and walking boots to make the most of a wet gloomy day.  We climbed the path to the rear of the camp site leading to a high cliff above the north harbour entrance.  The rain ceased and the sun made a brief appearance.  There wasn't a sign of a strong gale in the air. 

We continued our little trek keeping our eyes peeled for eagles, well known to nest along these cliffs.

Just as our clothes were drying off the heavens emptied again as we tramped through a very boggy field back to a waterlogged camp site.  I decided to stay in the comfort of my van for the remainder of the week while my dad braved the damp conditions in the tent.  Not before testing out the local beer/whisky of course!

TUESDAY 13th SEPTEMBER 2011

We awoke to another damp and breezy day.  It seems the gale force depression had passed further south across lower Scotland and Northern England and Wales.  Conditions for today were still bleak so I decide to take some advice from the guys on the forum and head for a trip around Scalpay, a fair size island not far from base camp on the east coast.

I dropped my dad off at the infamous mountaineering pub at Sligachan at the foot of the Red Cullin Hills and headed on further up the road to launch off the ferry slipway at the end of Loch Sligachan.   

Ferry terminal at the south of Raasay

With the wind at my back I made a good 6-7 knots across the 3 1/2 km crossing to the Isle of Raassy.  I paddled around the southern extremities of the island before crossing over to Scalpay. 

Looking south toward the Cullin Hills.  Scalpay to the left the headland of Loch Sligachan right cloud in-between!
My photos are much to be desired on such a bleak day but I've added them all if only for my own purpose.

Looking back (I think) toward Loch Sligachan.
The cloud continued to gather from behind until I was almost lost in a sea of mist.

Light house at  Eyre Point south of Raasay

Crossing to Scalpay, on goes the hood!

Shelter on Scalpay, Rassay in the distance.

Continuing east as I reach Scalpay for a clockwise circumnavigation I find a small sheltered bay on the north of the island to plan out my trip ahead out of the wind. 

North East Scalpay
There isn't much to see on Scalpay, made even more grim with the weather.  Apparently it is a privately owned island that operates a red deer farm, shooting estate and holiday cottages.  It is a fairly low lying island (compared to the heights of its surroundings) made of mainly moorland and conifer plantations. 

 Looking back across to high cliffs of remote eastern side of Rassay.
I take the opportunity to look back across to the remote eastern side of Rassay, a trip three day circumnavigation I hope to make someday, a comment I believe I made last year.

Longay Island, off the east of Scalpay
The east side of Scalpay looks on to a series of smaller islands.  I was tempted to paddle the short distance out and link them up before crossing back but the wind was on the increase and I had to be back for my dad.

East of Scalpay looking across to the Skye Bridge faintly seen to the right of my bow.
Under the cliffs of the south east of Scalpay I was out of the wind.  The inshore waters take on a mirror like appearance in a brief spell of calm as I try to make out land far across Skye's inner sound.

South corner of Scalpay looking on to the Cullin hills.

I take advantage of what seems to be the only easy landing place on Scalpay on the south east corner.  The tide is out and the beach is a mix of mud, seaweed and shingle.  It continues to rain on what seems to be a deserted harbour so I find some shelter next to the slipway and pour myself a hot coffee.

I was hoping that this area of Skye would be sheltered from the worst (which it was).  Although I expected strong gusts to sweep down the narrow Loch na Cairidh dividing Skye from Scalpay I thought it would be wise to cross at it's narrowest part and seek what shelter there is inshore.

The aim was to meet back at the Sligachan pub around 5pm, and I was making excellent time.  Here at the narrows I stop off and try (badly) to get a shot of myself seeing as I wont have many during the trip. 

Through the narrows and my expectations become reality.  A strong headwind makes paddling very difficult.  Driving rain doesn't help moral either. 

With the water on the low tide I stop off at every rocky outcrop to rest realising how much further I had to go.  Each picture from here on in was taken traveling 2 knots backwards!

Like last year conditions were fairly flat but the strength on the wind was immense.

Moving away from the headland looking down Loch Ainort.

Shelter under a cliff on the other side of Loch Ainort.
I find a long awaited sheltered spot on the far side of Loch Ainort after a grueling crossing.  I dip into my deck bag for some energy snacks before pressing on.

Loch Sligachan
Around the last headland and it was a final push into Loch Sligachan.  By now I was faltering, energy sapped and joint aching I was tempted to get out and walk.  There was no stopping, a brief stop would have me stalling and blown backwards.

Raasay Ferry coming in on the home stretch.
The pier was now in view, a meir 1/2 km push to finish.  I stop again behind a small slipway to a hotel as the Raasay ferry drives past.  I let it pass as we are going to the same destination and drive in behind it's wake.

I crash out on the beach, barely able to walk and completely out of breath.  Has to be probably the hardest paddle I have done.  A kind lady who must have seen my struggle from the ferry offered to help me up to the car park with the boat.  I thank her between breaths and notice as she drives away the v-bars on her car roof, a fellow kayaker. 

I load the boat and head on up to the pub, over an hour late.  An eagle sores over the loch above, but no energy to get my camera out of the back.  I find my dad, should I say slightly tipsy, after he had come of the hills four hours earlier.  The rivers had turned into torrents due to the rain and he was unable to cross them. 

17 nautical miles in total (roughly 31km/20miles)

The Misty Isle

Hindered by the wind and rain I managed a couple of half decent paddles this week on the Isle of Skye.  Photo's and posts to follow once I have sifted through the hundreds of photos...

Gone Paddling

Gone to the Isle of Skye to tackle Hurricane Katia.  See you in a week!

Ships of the Ages

Today I visited the Barry Tall Ship Festival and the ships weren't the only thing ageing.  Today is also my 30th Birthday and I was hoping to get in my boat.  There were four ships in all here today along with a funfair and all the usual goings on.

The fist ship we visited was The Kathleen and May.  Built in 1900 she is the only wooden triple masted sailing schooner still in existence.  Launched in Chester in April 1900 she was named after the captains two daughters Lizzie May.  She carried various cargoes from Oban to the Channel Islands and London to Ireland.  She was purchased in 1908 and re-named Kathleen May after the new owners two daughters.   She then became part of a fleet of coal ships trading between the Bristol Channel and Youghal.  She continued in the coal trade until 1961 and is now equipped with an ex-lifeboat 400hp engine.

 The ship opposite (above) is the Stavros S Niarchose, which I will come to later.

Next we boarded The Ruth.  Built in 1914 as a Baltic trading ship, trading until 1964.  She was then restored in Denmark and began a new life as a sailing schooner.  In 1984 she was burnt when an oil stove caught the wooden life raft alight.  Upon a new restoration she was then fitted with cabins, which are used today for paying guests.  Now she can be seen working out of Cornwall as a family run charter. 

Under the watchful eye of some mean looking armed crew we boarded the HMS Tyne.  Along with sister ships Mersey and Severn, HMS Tyne forms the backbone of the Fishery Protection Squadron, the oldest Squadron in the Royal Navy, which patrol English, Welsh and Northern Irish waters, enforcing EU and UK legislation designed to ensure the sustainability of fish stocks for the future. HMS Tyne spends 320 days at sea each year, whatever the weather, policing over 80,000 square miles of sea, up to 200 miles off the coast of the UK.

 I think this was Connor's favorite ship!

While the kids were busy stuffing their faces with candyfloss and going mad on a soft play pirate ship I escaped for a guided tour of the Stavros S Niarchos. 

 Although the masts look like they are made of wood the whole boat is actually made of metal.

Completed in January 2000 she was originally obtained half completed from Germany by the Tall Ships Youth Trust.  The semi completed hulls were transported to Devon where the ship was modified and fitted out for it's current requirements.  In good conditions it can maintain a speed of 13 knots under sail.  She normally sails under a crew of up to 67 - 6 permanents paid crew, 11-13 voluntary crew and up to 48 voyage (paying) crew.  I managed to pick up a brochure for their holidays.

I had to get some pictures from the water of this rare occurrence but I am pretty certain you are probably not allowed to launch off the side of the dock, especially with a navy ship in dock.

I sat around on the dock side late in the evening umming arhhhing about getting on the water.  There were a few grey ribs circling the docks and armed officers on board, I thought it's probably not worth getting arrested or shot at for getting too close.  Just as I had made my mind up a tug came into the dock and escorted the HMS Tyne out of the docks.    

The tall ships were going to stay in dock a little longer as a storm was coming in and the wind was already picking up.  I donned my new Palm Kaikouara tour BA, a birthday present off my lovely wife and pushed my boat through over the railings.  A slippery climb and I was in the water.

The ships looked huge from the water, really need another boat for scale but Taran was down with lazygititis.

This shot was taken exactly two years ago give or take a couple of days on my first ever paddle with the Stavros again on the dock side.  Not quite the same sunny evening conditions as last time.

The Kathleen and May and Stavros.  (left to right)

The Ruth, Kathleen and May and Stavros.

Only a short birthday paddle but a great day.  I love tall ships and before my next decade is out would like to get aboard one for a trip.  My next paddle will probably be from the Isle of Skye, until then it'll be work work work... 

Petrel Build #7 - Finishing the Hull

Half way there! I have finally finished stripping the hull.  I've been putting in a little time at the end of each working day, usually getting at least two strips in.  It's finally paid off with some progress.

 I finished my last boat build post just after I had stripped past the chine (sharp angle).  After that progress was very quick, I think I have now perfected the technique.  I added the keel strips leaving two moon shaped gaps on either side, then filled in the rest.  The last strips were a bit difficult and I think a bit of wood flour and glue filling will be needed.  I sawed off the ends and planed them down, they will eventually be capped off with a stem piece.  The ends can probably be planed back about another inch, almost to where the internal stem piece is, so you can ignore that chip in the bow.

I have a few slightly darker strips so I tried to be a little creative.  Once it is planned, sanded, glassed and varnished the contrast will probably stand out a little more.  Either way I not entirelly bothered, who's gonna see the bottom.  I stood back and looked on at my achievement and had the urge to pick it up, sling it on my shoulder and go for a paddle.  Not quite ready yet!

I spent a few hours pulling out the endless amount of staples, I'm gonna try not to use so many in the deck.  I then flipped it over an rested it on the floor while I fastened some old carpet to the supports to act like a sling while I work on the deck.

Today I went back with a hammer to gently knock the forms free to remove the strong back.  I didn't have the camera on me but it looked great, like an open canoe.  I placed the stongback back in and put a few staples back in to keep it from warping.  Now work begins on the deck...