The Bishops and the Clerks

It was the bi-annual West Wales Sea Kayak meet.  The forecast promised to be good for the long weekend of paddling, drinking and catching up with old friends.  I decided to join the Bishops and Clerks trip after turned down the invite for Grass Holm with Eurion and Mark.

I have visited these off shore chain of islands when paddling out to The Smalls and on return from the Ireland Crossing.  I have since wanted to return to take in the trip in its entirety rather than a brief passing.

Photo by Sean Hurrell

Quite a few had wanted to join in the same trip so we split in to two large groups.  The usual suspects included (from left to right above) Sean, Gareth, Me, Jim and Chris, Mike Mayberry was also leading our group.

Chris and Jim trying to look as if they know what they are doing.
So the plan was to take the south-flowing stream from Abereiddy down and out to North Bishop.  From there is was a case of simply allowing the tide to take us down past Carreg Rhoson, Daufraich (Bishops) and lastly South Bishop.  At which point the south flowing stream should be slowing to allow us to ferry glide across to Ramsey Island, sneaking through the Midland Gap and up through Ramsey Sound and into Whitesands Bay. Simples.

It was a perfect day as forecast but the speed of the flow was quite clear as we left the safety of the shore.

Sean and our first offshore destination, North Bishop.

Spirits were high as we headed out but there was a slight feeling of unease, for me at least.  The offshore overfalls around the chain of islands can become rough even in light wind conditions, partly the reason why some of us were looking forward to this trip and partly why some of us weren't so keen.  

North Bishop loomed closer and with it the tide becoming more noticeable.  However there was no obvious signs of any rough water to play in.

Jim enjoying some moving water.

A slight ferry glide was required to keep us on course for the Clerks but all was going to plan as we moved on between the islands.

The Clerks are actually a chain of over 20 islets and rocks, many submerged, encircling the coast catching many unwary sailor over the ages.

We continued on meandering between the rocky fangs, resting in eddies and playing in the overfalls.

Until only the last rock remained, South Bishop.  South Bishop, also known as Emskir (derived from Old Norse sker meaning a skerry), is the only rock with a lighthouse.  The lighthouse dates back to the 1830's marking the northern entrance to St Brides Bay.  Attached to the light is a pair of two storey keeper's houses, originally intended for two families.  However due to the exposed nature of the island it is doubtful anyone other than the lighthouse keepers ever remained.  In high seas the courtyard and addition of a heli-pad often flood and the windows have been known to break on occasions also.

Time was pressing and the flow had already started to flood north so we started what was to become an arduous ferry glide toward Ramsey Island.

The group split and the paddling dragged on.  It was clear we were not making much ground aiming for Ynys Bery, the southerly tip of Ramsey Island.  Eventually we gave into the forces of nature and aimed to paddle up the west coast of Ramsey before crossing over to Whitesands.

We stopped to rest and re-group upon reaching Ramsey Island before moving on.  Possibly the largest group of paddlers I have ever paddled with.

It was a fairly uneventful crossing back over to Whitsands bay where we joined with the group of the Ramsey Island trip.

A fantastic trip and another one ticked off the bucket list.  It was time to retire back to the club at Fishguard to catch Wales vs England in the rugby with a Chinese takeaway and a few pints to merry the night away.