If Talisker Did Hangovers

We stayed a little later in the pub last night as it was raining heavily outside so to warm our spirits we finished off the night with a wee tipple of whiskey.  Back at the camp site I opened my van door to find rain pouring through my roof collecting on my sleeping bag in a large puddle.  After ranting and swearing to my wife about my unfortunate situation I gave into the fact the only option was to kip in the front of the van and sort it in the morning.  After a very restless cold night without a sleeping bag I gave up and got up at 4am. 

While the rest of the camp site slept soundly I quietly slipped away on my bike.  I packed a Mars bar for breakfast and a bottle of water and headed up the north road.  I felt strangely fresh even though the taste of Talisker was still strong in my mouth.  Just as I left the camp site and I realised I hadn't put my gloves on and it was icy cold.  So I cycled on with one hand in my pocket and one on the handle bar.

The wind had dropped and apart from the clag that hung on the shoulders of the mountains the sky was cloudless.  I got as far as the Storr car park, roughly 5.5miles from camp but without my phone I thought my dad may worry if I was nowhere to be seen.  So after my morning chocolate snack I headed back.

Cycling doesn't get much better.  The roads up here are perfect considering the harsh weather they get up here.  I got back to the camp site, a few people starting to wake now including my dad.  Just a little time to dry out my sleeping bag, fix the hole in my roof before the start of another blustery, rainy day on the misty isle....

Where Eagles Dare

The forecast for the beginning of the week had never promised nice weather.  South westerly force 5 gusting gale force 9 with wintry showers.  I had no plans to get out in the boat until conditions improved.  

We woke to a chilly morning, a fresh covering of snow capped the distant Cullin mountains.  Hail stones clanged off the corrugated tin roof sheltering the wash basins as we scrubbed  at the burnt porridge at the bottom of the cooking pans in vain.  After forking out £100 for a new tyre we decided on an easy climb up the local 'hill' Ben Tianavaig....  

Ben Tianavaig, a mixture of Gaelic and Norse meaning 'harbour at the foot of the hill', is an impressive looking hill at the head of the Portree harbour which only stands at 413m (1,355ft) .  (picture above from Google)

The climb starts from the Tianavaig Bay, a bay I washed up upon in 2010 for lunch.

We leave Tianavaig Bay and head up a small sheep track.  The Black Cullin ridge remains in hidden in the clag but specular views of the Red Cullins come and go between showers.

The higher we get the better the views.  Bellow are the narrows of Raasay, the limit at which my paddle in 2010 got to.

It's hard going in the wind, strong enough at times to make you lose your footing.  We shelter at rocky outcrops between hail showers.

We follow the ridge to the summit, careful not to stray to close to the edge in the strong winds.

The views from the summit were great...

The Quiraing and the Old Man of Storr to the north.

Portree bellow and the west coast of Skye on the horizon.

The Isle of Raasay to the east and the Cullin mountains to the south.

Dad on the summit.

Bellow us tower steep sided cliffs where White Tailed Sea Eagles nest and where I have seen sightings of them many times before.  We sat sheltered from the wind in a dip in the cliff edge and sure enough a pair of eagles showed up, souring high above the cliff tops.

Far bellow the wind gust across the sound of Raasay.  White plumes of spray seemed to glide over the waters surface like the souls of sailors lost at sea.

From out walk we travelled north up the coast in search of another short coastal walk to fill our afternoon in the dismal conditions.  We stumbled upon a waterfall so took to the path leading down the cliff side.

Remains of the kiln

Further down the valley where the river Lealt meets the sea is the Inver Tote Diatomite works.  Diatomite is a white clay like earth formed from the deposits of microscopic organisms.  Diatomite is used in the production of face powder, fire proofing, insulation, filtration of beers, but the Skye Diatomite was mainly used in the production of dynamite in the 1880s.  The Diatomite was quarried further up the valley and transported by tram way and carried by hand down the cliff path where it would be stored before being transported by boat.

A room with a view.

The wind strengthens considerably gusting over the water, on more than one occasion I was pushed to the floor, definitely not kayaking weather.  With a westerly wind this was the sheltered east side of the island, I can only imagine what the west coast looked like.  We call it a day and head into town and warm ourselves up with some locally distilled Talisker whiskey and I try out some local venison burgers, my new favourite.  Unfortunately at the time I wasn't aware I was in for a very long night.....   

Arriving on Skye

Our trip to the Isle of Skye did not get off the best of starts.  Whilst cleaning out my van Friday afternoon, my power steering pump went, leaving a stick red puddle under the van.  After a few frantic phone calls I managed to get someone to fit a new pump Saturday morning.  This however meant delaying our trip until Sunday morning.  Arriving early to pick up my dad, we left for Skye at 6:30am.  Usually we split the 615 mile journey over two days, taking a stop near Fort William, but with already a day lost we did the trip over eleven and half hours to arrive at Portree for 7pm.

Driving through the highlands the clag refused to lift off the snowy peaks but from Fort William onwards the conditions cleared.  Crossing the Skye bridge spirits were high as we weaved our way through the mountain passes.  The sun shone through the clouds reflecting off the blue waters and white peaks, we were finally here!!!

Spectacular views of the white topped Cullin mountains presented themselves at our base camp at Portree.  Mid May we didn't expect to still see snow on the tops and it was surprisingly very cold, we had both optimistically packed shorts.  On the plus side there were no sign of the dreaded midges.

My home for the next week, a little more cramped than usual with the added addition of the two bikes.  We unpack and head into Portree for a few pints of Isles Ale and wild boar sausages and Angus beef and ale pie for tea.  We dwell over the forecast for the next few days of strong winds and showers but improving as the week goes on....  

Gone To The Isle Of Skye

It's been a long 8 months since we cancelled our annual trip up to the Isle of Skye last September.  Strong gale force winds and heavy rain reluctantly forced to reschedule to May.  The time is now upon us and the forecast isn't all doom and gloom.  A mixed bag of sun and showers and the wind is a lot better than the gale force 9 I'm used to up there.  We have the bikes with us this time so we should be able to get out in most weathers.  See you in a week...

Busy Bank Holiday

GEL COAT REPAIRS 04/05/2013

I hadn't planned on paddling this bank holiday weekend despite the near perfect weather forecast.  I had a long list of things to do before I travel up north next weekend for our annual Skye trip.  On that list was to repair the holes on my boat.  I bought the a tube of gel coat filler which comes in two parts, gel coat and hardener.  

Simply mix the two together and the spread it on.  After an hour the paste hardens and is ready to be sanded smooth...ta da!!  Not perfect but it would look out of place if I had a shiny pristine patch on my boat.

THE MOST SOUTHERLY POINT 05/05/2013

So after a busy day Saturday, Steve mentions he is coming over from West Wales on Sunday with Tavi for a paddle along my local stretch from Llantwit Major to Sully.  I should really get on the water again before I go to Skye seeing as I've not paddled much recently so I decide to join them along with other Steve.   

Neither Steve, Steve or Tavi had paddled this stretch before, I did mention it isn't the greatest for scenery but I think Tavi was keen to fill a gap.

With a brisk force 3-4 wind to our rear we made quick progress along the yellow sandstone cliffs and onward to Wales most southerly point.

Breaksea Point, the most southerly tip of Wales....and Aberthaw power station! Beautiful isn't it.

The cassion/water intake tower conveniently marks the most southerly point on the mainland opposite.

We pass Rhoose, Porthekerry viaduct, the Knap, all photographed many times so I try to keep the pictures to a minimum.  Time for lunch so we land at the first soft landing on route at Barry old harbour.

Back on the water and on to Barry Island...

Everyone seemed to be making the best of the first spell of hot weather (and hopefully no the last) of the year.

Steve rounding Nells Point and the coast water station.

Just over 14 miles see's us landing at Sully.  I'm left enjoying the sun while the two Steve's go get the cars.  I would be rude not to have a quick pint in the Captains Wife beer garden now wouldn't it.   

Not the greatest of sections of coast but nice to meet up again with everyone again and to be on the water finally.

EVENING SERENITY 06/05/2013

Whilst Steve, Tavi join James and Eurion for a paddle out to the holms on what must be the most perfect day of the year I decide to spend bank holiday with the family seeing as though I'll be going away next week.  After running about in bank holiday traffic, playing footy with the kids, cooking up a BBQ I decide to spend the remainder of the day relaxing with a short 16 mile bike ride to Nash Point lighthouse.

The only time I saw a car was while I briefly past through Llantwit Major town.  Sea views, beautiful countryside, wildlife, fresh air, great weather, what more could you want?   

I put my foot down tonight trying to improve on my slow average pace of 13 mph, so I was very happy with my average pace of 16 mph.

Isle of Skye next weekend.  The forecast isn't brilliant but there are a few force 3-4's in there, which I can't moan about, considering it's usually 9's and 10's when I go up.  The bikes are coming along this time so wither way I should get some good adventures.